Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
